Hey, I'm Dominic Armato, dining critic forazcentral and I spend an inordinate amount of time in an around downtown Scottsdale.
In no small part because there's a whole lotof restaurants there, but while there are certainly a number of spotsthat quietly go about making great food with not a lot of preening and promotion, that's maybe not so much the norm in thatpart of town.
It can get a little tiresome, listening to litany of well-financed, butmediocre restaurants braying about how stylish and delicious theyare.
Which is why it's so nice to take a littlebreak at a place that actually is.
Weft and Warp Art Bar and Kitchen is by nomeans a scrappy little indie.
This is the flagship restaurant at the newAndaz Scottsdale Resort.
It's a polished, professional operation thatwas no doubt awfully expensive to bring to term but, rather than get swept up in the typical "look at me!" hyperbole, this is a comfortable, stylish joint that'sall confidence and little bit of class, you know? Like the Andaz at large, Weft and Warp isa showcase of mid-century modern design splashed with enough bold colors to look likea Pantone book.
And the kitchen, led by executive chef AdamSheff I'm.
It's just too easy.
the kitchen's turning out some really nicefood.
The menu's not too big.
It's creative while being approachable.
And, perhaps most importantly, it is consistently well-executed.
There are tender little cheese dumplings rolledin this onion ash to give them an ever-so-slightly bitter contrast served in a succulent tangle of spaghettisquash.
There's lamb belly with a punchy orange-and-olivesalad, and a sauce that's basically liquid lettuce.
And that's absolutely a good thing.
The fish are great.
There's some gorgeous roasted swordfish withbeets, melted leeks in a citrus vinaigrette.
And a whole trout seared golden on the planchawith nutty romesco.
I am totally digging on the kurobuta porkchop with black beans and bell peppers.
And I will weep bitter bitter tears when thebaby yams go out of season.
They're topped with charred i’itoi onionsin a brown butter and ancho chile vinaigrette that is just stupid good.
Throw in some really nice composed desserts and a staff that's as capable as they arelaid back, and this is just a great place to chill andrelax and feel downright civilized for a little while.
I don't want to get carried away, but this place is just so pleasantly delicious in so many ways.
I'm letting my heart take the lead.
I'm giving Weft and Warp four stars.
This is Dominic Armato for azcentral.